What actually makes a blade “T10 steel”?

T10 is a high-carbon tool steel, running roughly 0.95–1.04% carbon, with a small tungsten addition and traces of manganese and silicon. That carbon content puts it in the same family as 1095 steel, but the tungsten makes T10 purer and meaningfully more resistant to wear, chipping, and abrasion once it's heat-treated and clay-tempered.

What's the difference between T10 and 1095 steel?

Both are high-carbon steels capable of taking a hard, sharp edge and a visible hamon when clay-tempered. The tungsten in T10 adds extra abrasion and scratch resistance without giving up the toughness that keeps a blade from cracking under impact — which is why we use T10 across most of our clay-tempered line rather than plain 1095.

Is T10 steel good for actual cutting (tameshigiri)?

Yes — it's one of the reasons we favor it. Properly heat-treated T10 reaches a hardness in the high-50s to low-60s HRC, giving an edge that's both sharp and slow to dull. It holds up well to repeated cutting on bamboo, tatami mats, and similar targets, which is why it's a common choice for functional practice swords rather than just display pieces.

Why do T10 katana cost less than the Damascus line?

T10 is forged from a single steel billet, while Damascus blades are folded and forge-welded from multiple layers — a slower, more labor-intensive process. That's why our Damascus collection generally sits above this T10 line: the price difference reflects the extra forging time, not a difference in cutting performance.

How do I care for a T10 steel blade?

T10 is not stainless, so it will rust if neglected. Wipe the blade down after handling, apply a light coat of choji or mineral oil before storing, and keep it in a dry environment away from humidity swings. A few minutes of maintenance after each use keeps the edge and the hamon looking their best for years.

Should I choose sharpened or dull?

Sharpened blades carry a true cutting edge, suited to trained handling and test cutting. Dull (unsharpened) blades share the same steel, temper, and fittings but ship with a rounded edge — the more common choice for display or collectors who don't plan to cut.